Wind And Waves

Living and Loving

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Professional Beginner

October 1st, 2021 · No Comments · La Vida

Thats me. It seems as though….. the whole “surfing thing” is not intuitive to me! I thought I would be a natural born surfer, I hoped I would! But my body and mind know the mountains and rivers, not the dynamimacy of el mar! Ha!! I am learning the ocean every day. And Every day it is different and I am different and the currents are different and the bottom is different, the crowd is different. The variables, as it turns out, are infinite! But!!! I am loving this motor-less sport that puts you right in the heart of the big mother! Every day is a new day.


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